Archive for the ‘Fly Tying’ Category

BIG conehead tying tip

Saturday, May 1st, 2010

 Unless securely affixed to the hook, a big conehead can begin to spin and twist during the course of fishing and begin to destroy your fly. We’ve all seen it. Big coneheads, 7/16’s or larger, really magnify this problem. The simply solution I’ve found is this.

1) Put the conehead on the hook

2) Behind it slide the biggest bead you can fit

3) Use the thickest diameter thread you have, (I prefer Uni-Stretch for this as you can really get the thread stretched tight), and build up a thread base tight behind the bead until the cone is secure and will not spin.

4) If done properly you can hold the cone, hook eye down, and superglue the bead to the cone without any glue making its way to the hook eye. The bead and cone  should make a tight seal due to the thread base behind the bead.

 This method will insure the pattern lasts for  cast after cast  and fish after fish without that cone spinning out and ruining your fly.

Stinger (Articulated Fly) Tying Tip

Friday, April 23rd, 2010

I’ve watched many a tier struggle with articulated patterns due to the addition of the stinger hook . Many tiers will often start with the front hook, tying on the backing first followed by the tail. This works fine if the tail is not tied to the stinger hook. If the tail is tied to the stinger, starting the fly this way is a recipe for a frustratred tier attempting to whip finish around 7 inches of fly and front hook when it comes time to tie the tail to the stinger. The solution is simple

 1) Measure out your tail and backing

 2)Attach the backing to the stinger with a handshake loop

 3) Tie  the rabbit strip to the stinger

 4) Set aside.   Happy Tying

Fluff’s Humpy

Friday, April 16th, 2010

 As many of you tiers are feverously tying for your upcoming Alaska trip ,here is a Humpy variation tied by AFA guide Levi Hohl. Tied in a Wulff fashion with long calftail wings and elongated moose body hair tail, this pattern with the addition of a foam back floats high and is easily visible.

Hook: Tiemco 100 or Daichii 1180 sz. 12

Thread: Brown 8/0

Tail: Moose Body

Dubbing: Rusty Brown Ice Dub

Back: 2mm Brown Foam

Hackle: Brown

Wing: Calftail

Willie Nelson-the red headed stranger

Tuesday, April 13th, 2010

Perhaps it should have been, “Alaska on my mind”.  This pattern, which essentially is an articulated egg sucking leech, is best fished on the swing or slowly stripped through slots, holes and tailouts. I like to tie mine with a circle hook as trout generally set themselves when swinging big articulated streamers.

Hook: Gamakatsu 208408 sz. 4 ,attatched via 30lb backing material to any straight eye streamer hook with the hook bend cut off.

Thread: Black 6/0

Tail: Black Rabbit Strip

Body: Crosscut Black Rabbit

Eyes: Spirt River Real-Eyes Plus 7/32″ Nickel Pearl

Head: STS Trilobal Dub Red- tied with a dubbing loop and teased out

Flash: Flashabou Holographic Blue- 6 strands

Preparation H

Wednesday, March 17th, 2010

As the name so eloquently implies, this pattern has a bit of an irritated rear. This flyis fished exactly as you would a mouse. Shorts, erratic strips with slight pauses. Easy to tie and quite durably, the foam helps keep the pattern afloat when it becomes a little water logged.  It addition to increased boyancy, the foam also aids in keeping the hook angle ideally positioned to hook trout exploding on this fly.

Hook: size 2-4 straight eye salmon hook Daiichi 2151

Thread: Tan 6/0

Body: Spun natural deer body hair trimmed to shape

Butt: Orange Krystal Glo Ball

Head: Tan foam

Legs: Grizzly barred tan rubber legs

The Gray Wulff

Tuesday, March 9th, 2010
Here is a video from theweeklyfly.com with Bob Jacklin tying the Gray Wulff. The Gray Wulff is a great pattern for rainbow trout, Arctic char and grayling in the waters we fish. Very bouyant and durable, this famous Wulff pattern is as effective today as it was decades ago.
 
The Gray Wulff

Roy Beaman of Napa, Ca with a nice July rainbow caught on a Gray Wulff